A portrait photographer’s favourite bits of photographic stuff…

What bits of photographic kit do I use above all others? What if I could only have a handful of items? What would I keep? Here’s what I came up with in no particular order.

Canon EOS 5D MKII
Before obtaining this camera I’d used a Canon EOS 20D and a 30D. They were great cameras, more than good enough for serious work, but not the sort of thing you could really form a bond with – there was still that nagging doubt that 35mm film still had a special something. With its beautiful, clear images, massive resolution, and impressive low-light capabilities, the Canon EOS 5D MKII meant digital had truly come of age for me. I love this camera. It’s a workhorse. It’s a good mate.

Portaflash 5-in-1 reflector
Bought from eBay.co.uk for a tenner, this reflector offers a gold, silver, white, or black surface for bouncing or controlling light. It can even act as a diffusion panel with sunlight or flash. Careful use of reflectors can bring window-light shots to life or provide a pleasing fill light. This £10 accessory has been used to death both for studio-style shots and out on on location and has held up well after many years of use, even though I own other more fancy reflectors now.

Sigma 50mm f/1.4 lens
A pretty new addition to the kit-bag, this lens is a marvel with it’s sharpness – even used wide open – and its creamy background blur. Sitting closer in price to Canon’s 50mm f/1.4 lens than their crazy-expensive f/1.2L model, it gives Canon’s high end glass a run for its money and is a powerful tool in its own right.

Cabaret Burlesque star Keda Breeze shot with the Sigma 50mm F1.4 EX DG HSM lens and Canon EOS 5D MKII camera. I love the sharpness and creamy out of focus area the lens delivers.

There’s something very pure about a 50mm lens and a full-frame camera. A 50mm focal length more or less matches what the naked eye sees – not wider or longer. Before SLR cameras tended to come couple to a zoom lens in the 90s, the 50mm lens was what you usually to got as standard.

Hasselblad 500c/m ‘V-series’ camera
Since digital photography got great a few years back there’s perhaps less reason to use film. However, there’s still something special about a bit of 120 film loaded into a gorgeous Hasselblad camera. The modern Hasselblad H-series has established itself has a leading range for high-end commercial work but the V-series remains such a popular camera that the Swedish camera legends still include a V-series model in the current camera range.

Don't hassel the 'blad! My Hasselblad 500cm modelled by model Jess.

Of course, you don’t have to use film with a Hasselblad. Insanely high resolution ‘digital backs’ can be clipped on, bringing a deisgn little-changed since the 1950s into 2011. Sadly, these backs cost as much as a high-end family car and are usually rented as part of commercial shoots rather than owned by individual photographers. Even older second hand models of more modest resolutions are way out of the reach of most jobbing pros. My Hasselblad remains proudly analogue.

Apple iPhone 4
Before I got an Android phone over a year ago I’d been a mobile phone luddite with a £10 text and talk phone. The HTC Android phone gave me a taste of the potential of smartphones but the interface was fiddly, the email client painful and the phone, while fast as first glance, would seem bog down under load becoming a frustration. Still, it encouraged me to move from a paper diary to Google Calendar, putting everything I was up to in my pocket.

When I got the chance to upgrade it was an easy choice to get the iPhone 4. I realised that while there is a huge amount of hype surrounding Android the iPhone is just slicker, more straightforward, and the App store actually contains some very useful, polished material (but plenty of dross too). Powerful applications like Filemaker Go turn the iPhone into a decent tool, not just a cool toy.

Of course, the iPhone 4 has, for the first time on an Apple phone, a semi-decent camera. I’m not going to start doing portrait shoots with it but with apps like Camera+, Photoshop Mobile, and Hipstamatic there’s plenty of fun to be had. I’ve even made some decent prints from iPhone images.

Light, Science, Magic Book
If you have any sort of camera that allows manual control and is fault-free you can potentially make brilliant images. It’s only educating yourself, hopefully starting from a base of visual literacy and a touch of talent, that improves your images.

One vital element that separates a professional-looking photograph from a snapshot is lighting. As you take more pictures you learn by experience that certain light is inherently easy to work with. Window light and open shade always flatters the subject. Hard light, like that given by harsh midday sun or small tungsten spotlights, can be unflattering and difficult to work with. Then there’s reflection, glare, shiny surfaces, and a whole host of other issues to grapple. The Light, Science Magic book gives you a great grounding in how light actually works – it’s technical, but distills the physics of light into a readable volume.  I’ve read it several times and it’s a book I keep coming back to.

PocketWizard Plus II radio triggers
PocketWizards allow you to trigger you flash via a radio link. Want the flash outside, blasting through a window? From behind the subject? Need to trigger a flash even without worrying about line of sight? These triggers do all that and are rock solid, never failing to fire the flash on a shoot. I use them extensively with my Bowens studio lights and with smaller hotshoe flashguns.

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 lens
Canon’s mid-range primes are a mixed bag. Some are bitingly sharp with impressive contrast while others are merely so-so. The Canon EF 85mm f/1.8, however, is a stunning little prime in a classic ‘portrait’ focal length. I often use in in preference to a more cumbersome EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS, even though it’s a much cheaper lens.

Joe Demb Flip-It Jumbo bounce card
A good bounce card can really make flash photography sing, especially when there isn’t scope or time to set up elaborate off-camera lighting. The Joe Demp Flip-it is well made and easy to adjust, sending some light to your bounce surface (wall, ceiling) while giving a little kick of light forward, filling shadows. Used creatively, you can get some fine almost studioesque effects. I use it extensively on PR shoots like press launches or events and often manage to get fabulous, directional light.

Jason Mamoa AKA Conan the Barbarian

Jason Mamoa AKA Conan the Barbarian. The Joe Demb Flip-it makes it possible to get soft, directional light, even with on-camera flash.

Penny Bizarre promo shoot

This weekend saw me shoot Penny Bizarre, a growing name on the UK burlesque cabaret circuit. Penny’s created several dark yet humorous acts that have been wowing audiences. She also runs Bristol’s Ritual-esque nights, which are billed as offering ‘bands, burlesque and bedazzlement.

I’d known Penny quite a while but it took a while to find the right time for the shoot. She had a new retro space-themed idea in gestation but also wanted some shots of her latest fiery routine, which sees her transform from a humble cleaner into a red-haired devil-horned siren.

Penny Bizarre. Shot with a Bowens Gemini Studio flash and 100cm softbox and a Sigma DG500 into a white umbrella provides just a hint of fill. The background is an unlit Lastolite Hilite. A demo of the film-simulation plugin Exposure 3 was used to created a wamer vintage film look to the portrait.

Portrait of Olympic gold-medalist Amy Williams

I recently had a chance to grab this portrait of Amy Williams, the British skeleton racer who bagged an Olympic gold medal in 2010. Amy had come to open a new shop in Bath, an event I was covering. Originally a 400m runner, she switched to the skeleton event and become the first British individual gold medalist at a Winter Olympics for 30 years.

Amy Williams, 2010 Winter Olympic British Gold Medalist. A shot Amy in a doorway with a bright exposure. Doorways always gives flattering shade and a pleasing wrapparound light effect.

Bristol Burlesque promo photography


Relative newcomer to the burlesque scene, Bristol-based Velveteen Hussey has already scored gigs at a Welsh Streampunk festival, performed as part of an act at Bristol’s Cabaret Abbatoir and stunned an audience at Coco Boudoir Newcomer’s night in Bath with an outrageous Clockwork Orange routine.

Velveteen Hussey in gothic attire shot on a grey background with a little texture added in Photoshop.

Quality promotional photography’s increasingly important for burlesque performers, and Ms Hussey needed a good set to get started. My home studio was used as a location and for a short shoot and we were both pleased with the results.

Velveteen Hussey wth vintage processing provided by Lightroom.

Next up was Cherry Blush, a new burlesque performer from Somerset with a degree in dance. It was her first ever proper shoot and on such occasions getting the client relaxed and in the right frame of mind for great photograph is as much part of the process as perfect lighting and the right camera settings. Cherry soon got into the vibe though and together we were able to put some lively images in the can.

Tanith the makeup artist gets to work on Cherry.

We were joined on the shoot by Bath-based freelance makeup artist, Tanith Lyons, who is soon to graduate from a makeup course with Bristol college. Tanith applied many jewells to Cherry’s lips, which added a slight ‘high concept’ feel to the photographs. ‘A bit like Jessie J’ some people have said when seeing the images… I have no idea who Jessie J is… Pop singer? After we got the performance shots out of the way, I made sure we took some ‘beauty style’ headshots so Tanith had some strong shots for her personal portfolio.

Cherry Blush headshot. I used a Bowens softbox above and a silver reflector below for a typical 'beauty' set-up.

A Bowens light had previously developed a fault, to the shoot was light with a Bowens Gemini light tucked inside a Lasotolite HiLite background (or an unlit mid-grey background for the Velveteen Hussey images), a Bowens Gemini and 100cm softbox for key lighting and, where the broken Bowens would have been, a Sigma 500 flashgun bounced from a Westcott ’soft silver’ umbrella.

Cherry Blush burlesque costume - unedited.

The Clockwork Orange Stokes Croft Riot burlesque photo shoot

Stokes Croft is a small inner suberb of Bristol that recently hit national headlines after riots broke out in the area. Although dubbed the ‘Tesco riots’ (an unpopular recently opened Tesco store was badly damaged in the disturbances) a great many factors contributed to it ‘kicking off’ and different locals all have a different take on what actually happened.  Rioting aside,  Stokes Croft is also a fabulous place for a hastily-organised guerrilla photo shoots with burlesque performers.

Velveteen Hussey

Velveteen Hussey shows off her custom in a run-down Stokes Croft phonebox.

With emerging burlesque star and Stokes Croft resident, Velveteen Hussey and assistant Hazel (making her assisting debut) we hit the streets with minimal kit to see what we could create in an hour or two to show off her Clockwork Orange-themed stage costume. Walls decorated with graffiti, brutalist semi-abandonnned shopping arcades and the infamous local ‘Bear Pit’ roundabout all made for beautifully grimy backdrops.

Velveteen Hussey near Stokes Croft's infamous 'Bear Pit'. The guy looming in the background with his staffie dog on a rope really makes the image I think.

Working with not too much stuff, I simply took a standard zoom lens, a Canon DSLR, Canon flashgun and a portable light stand with umbrella clamp and a Westcott folding ‘soft silver’ umbrella. This key light was mixed with varying amounts of ambient light to achieve different moods. As the evening light finally dimmed, the ambient light featured less, with the flash providing most of the lighting.

Velveteen Hussey stalks the Bear Pit. Some local people are scared to pass through this area at night - and, as this photograph demonstrates, perhaps with good reason.

The great thing about a guerrilla photo shoot is the liberating speed with which you move from idea to realising ideas. We set up a great shot in front of a  seedy Stokes Croft ‘massage parlour’ with it’s retro neon signage, placing model on a traffic island in the middle of the road. The flash light was held a good ten feet away to approximate the look of car headlights and it worked well. Other images made use of the wide range of street art for colour and texture. Stokes Croft is not short of interesting visuals.

As darkness fell we used flash photography alone - a Canon 580ex flash bounced from an umbrella, triggered by infrared.

Despite Stokes Croft having been used a a sort of dumping ground for social problems over the years – drug problems and street drinking are rife – a thriving creative community, those living alternative lifestyles, stunning pieces of street art (there’s even a famous Bansky piece slap bang in the centre) and a large student population make it an exciting place to be that is far from being the most dangerous part of the city. Plenty of locals and passers by took an interest in our shoot but it was all friendly and good natured.

The retro neon sleeze of a house of ill-repute serves up a great background.

Alexandra Hofgartner circus burlesque photoshoot, Circomedia Bristol

One interesting little shoot I did recently took place at Circomedia, Bristol with burlesque and circus performer, Miss Alexandra Hofgartner.

Alexandra Hofgartner with blue dress and fans...

Alexandra is a former graduate of Circomedia, an internationally-recognised Bristol circus school that recently celebrated its 25 year anniversary. She now combines performance gigs with teaching hoop skills at local dance schools.

Alexandra is also a noted aficionado of vintage style and is usually seen decked out in immaculate retro attire that evokes the 1940s and Golden Age of Hollywood especially. Her burlesque and circus performances also draw heavily on this interests. She claims not to even own a pair of jeans! Good to see someone waging war on the pernicious influence of drab casualwear… I’d first seen her perform an umbrella-based burlesque routine at a Coco Boudoir burlesque show in Bath, which for me was a stand-out act of the night.

Alexandra Hofgartner portrait

In terms of the photoshoot, I felt there were these two sides of Alex to combine – the circus skills and her head-turning vintage look.  We set up in a corner of the former churchCircmedia operates in Portland Square, St Pauls, using a thick black curtain as a backdrop. A Bowens soft-box was used as a key light, placed quite far to the right to give a sense of shape and direction. A fill light was present to control the level of shadow and and bounce-umbrella acted as a kind of rim/back light, carving Alexandra out of the dark background. A little light was also allowed to spill on the background to reveal a little texture in the curtains and prevent the curtain from appearing pure black.

Alexandra Hogartner holds a tricky pose on the silks at Circomedia, Bristol. Three Bowens Studio flash lights were used to carve her out of the dark background.

It was a new kind of photoshoot both for me and for Alexandra and a little trial and error was needed to find the best shapes. I was concerned about creating strong images while Alex, a real perfectionist, had the added concern to make sure the hoop moves were executed perfectly. In the end, though, I loved what we managed to achieve and hope to work with her again soon on a promo shoot showcasing her costumes. She is currently constructing a brand new website, which will appear here soon.

Alexandra Hofgartner portrait on the hoop Circomedia, Bristol